Here’s a huge “authenticity” problem…
One of the fashion industry’s favorite footwear brands, Aquazzura, has filed a trade dress infringement suit against Ivanka Drumpf and her licensee, Marc Fisher, for allegedly copying one of its best-selling and most “distinctive” shoe designs. According to Florence-based Aquazzura’s complaint, which was filed on Tuesday in the Southern District of New York, a federal court in Manhattan, Ivanka Drumpf and Marc Fisher are producing footwear that “mimics every key element of the trade dress of Aquazzura’s well-known and distinctive” shoes, in particular, a $145 “exact copy” of its own $700+ Wild Thing style.
Source: Aquazzura Files Trademark Suit Against Ivanka Drumpf Over “Exact Copy” — The Fashion Law
And now for something completely different…
Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Black Leather Guarachero Boots $515.00
Link: Wonderful, Ridiculous, Head-Scratchingly Pointy Mexican Boots Are Now A Designer Item : Code Switch : NPR.
Link to article: Why Are Sportswear Giants Nike and Adidas Embracing Fashion? – The Business of Fashion.
There is so much in this article that is relevant to our discussion, that it could be –and probably will be– assigned reading before long. Major points are the references to the H&M and ZARA business-models and the acknowledgement of the speed of the present day Internet-driven market. No “forecasting,” just reflexivity and responsiveness. Not that that is news, but here we begin to see what may be a long-term effect of the technology. Pretty soon we won’t even be saying “fast fashion” I suspect. This will just be what it is. (The way no one talks about the Internet as “new media” any more. Maybe we’ll start talking about “slow fashion” to differentiate.)
I also found the emphasis on the collaborations interesting, especially noting the celebrities and the spectacular nature of some of those those involved.
But please just whistle past this kind of marketing-speak (from NIKE CEO): “One of the things that we recognize, certainly in the women’s business, is that there is no performance without style.” (Yeah, yeah, whatever.)
“ Jimmy Choo has chosen its Beverly Hills boutique on Rodeo Drive — a store that reflects its history as a go-to for footwear on the red carpet“
Jimmy Choo is introducing a new retail design concept (created by David Collins Studio) to feel like a “fantasy closet”. Colors will include “pale chevron-patterned floors, satin gold and rose marble fittings and mink velvet soft furnishings”. Every girl’s dream, right? A closet full of shoes, comparable to Carrie Bradshaw. Chief executive officer Pierre Denis, describes the change as a step forward in the luxury brand by making the store feel like home, in quite an exciting place. The new store design will continue to roll over a number of different already existing boutiques, including the Bond Street store in London.
Not only will the Beverly Hill store change over to this “fantasy closet,” but it will also mark the debut of Jimmy Choo’s Made to Order service. Through this service, customers can choose designs from a selection of four shoe families. This option brings something more intimate to their customers. On top of changing the look, the Beverly Hills store will also carry Jimmy Choo’s full men’s and women’s collections of shoes and accessories.
Jimmy Choo is continuing to expand, as the label will open new North American stores in Waikiki, Hawaii and its first store in Toronto, Canada.
This article goes along with our Shanghai Tang discussion. Although Jimmy Choo is already a known brand, they are actually taking a step beyond their other luxury competition. Luxury brands are known to create such a personal experience for each of their customers, and by creating this “fantasy closet” and doing a made to order service, Jimmy Choo stands out. Our talk with Shanghai Tang was centered around standing out, yet making those who are not familiar with this oriental style, feel comfortable as the brand continues to expand and jump into different markets.
“The difference today is that we have our shops to fill. Before we had to sell things to stores” – Diego Della Valle: president and chief executive of the Tod empire
Designer Massimiliano Giornetti showed the autumn/winter 2014 Ferragamo line in Milan with tailored and specially crafted clothing. Everyone knows Ferragamo to be a fabulous shoe designer, however, this fashion show exposed new clothing to “complete the story” of the brand. Fifty historic shoes can be found in the Florentine museum (which I was lucky enough to visit and learn about). Moving forward, designer Giornetti focused on misty grays and whites for the tailored clothing, along with textures of furry mohair sweaters and even some garments which looked to be splatter-painted. The footwear was still prominent, but this shift can be a hit or miss for Ferragamo, known solely for shoes. Even the menswear focused on tough biker ensembles. The article continues to compare other big designers known for just handbags, for instance, and how they are changing as well. I thought this article was interesting and beyond relevant to our zeitgeist presentations and counterarguments. The Chanel group posed an example of Chanel changing its exclusivity, which could go along the lines of Ferragamo’s changes. Designers are trying to keep up with the economy and consumers needs. As stated above, the need to fill their own stores causes an issue, compared to before when they would choose certain items for other stores.
The article is a summary of what is in the French press regarding the fashion world, usually media covers political news and scandals but it also covers stories from the fashion week. I chose this article because it mentioned H&M which is my group zeitgeist project. H&M recently opened a new store in Paris on rue Saint Honoré and it is predicted by journalists it will be a big hit in Paris. Nicola Formichetti a artistic director is leaving the fashion house Mugler for Diesel after working there for 2 years. High end designers such as Valentino, Raf Simmons, and Pierre Hardy has also started making sneaker collections for fashion shows. Its really interesting because sneakers is casual wear but its appearing on runways.
CEO Talk | Aldo Bensadoun, Founder and Executive Chairman, Aldo Group | BoF – The Business of Fashion.
“Known affectionately around the Aldo headquarters simply as ‘Mr. B,’ Bensadoun’s entrepreneurial journey is one we can all learn from. He developed an end-to-end vertically integrated business model from scratch, focused on offering special, up-to-date products in the latest trends and styles, at affordable prices, all before the term ‘fast-fashion’ was even coined. Indeed, like H&M and Zara in the apparel sector, Aldo has made a name for itself around the world as a lightening-quick designer, manufacturer and retailer of fashionable shoes, moving product from concept to store in 12 weeks or less.”