File under “Death of Fashion”? The end of the “big name designer” is now officially upon us, it would seem (it’s been coming for a decade at least.) But yet again the changing landscape seems to be taking the World of Fashion by surprise…. (Why?)
“We’re accustomed to witnessing the revolving door at struggling heritage labels. Less so at the top echelons of brands.”
Source: Hedi Slimane Is Out at Saint Laurent—These In-and-Out Creative Directorships Can’t Be Good for the Fashion Business – Vogue
Anybody see this coming?
All the ways fashion designers have paid tribute to the late icon during the Fall 2016 season.
Source: David Bowie Tributes at Fashion Week Fall 2016 – Vogue
In addition to the questions in the subheading, this article also asks “What’s the point of fashion week, today?” (And then they cop out in typical no-content fashion journalism style, by saying: “The answer is up for grabs.”)
It might be worth spending about half the term discussing that…
Have we reached peak Hadid? Will Rihanna out-Kanye Kanye? And more pressing questions from New York Fashion Week.
Source: New York Fashion Week Fall 2016 Preview – Vogue
Hey! It’s our neighborhood! (Our “here” our “now”!!)
Providence, Rhode Island is home to an amazing style scene that culminates in StyleWeek Northeast—and these five rising fashion brands.
Source: An Inside Look At StyleWeek Northeast – Forbes
Here’s an interesting article on the occasion of Oscars Night. (Actually it gets more interesting as you go along. You just have to get through the first bit….)
The quotation to think about comes toward the end:
So powerful is the potential for Oscar glory for fashion brands that Tom Ford withdrew from his London fashion week catwalk presentation last week to focus his attention on dressing the stars at the Dolby Theatre
“He was angry that the two events clashed,” says Catherine Hayward, fashion director at Esquire magazine. “So he made a strategic decision not to show his collection because he would also miss out on crucial press coverage – in media terms, nothing can compete with the Oscars now.”
Link to article: The Top 10 Moments From Spring/Summer 2015 Couture Week.
Question of the day, then: Is there anything to be learned from this? Maybe it’s just because I have a cold, but I can’t think of a single thing to point to….
Overloaded something-or-other, minimalism, Bianca Jagger’s suit for the thousandth time, Bowie-influence for the thousandth time, bla bla bla… If these are the ten most memorable moments, then this was a dismal week….
(OK, I’m also being deliberately a little ornery – maybe I’ll have something more positive to say on Monday…)
(6 hours later:)
OK, the obvious point is “of course, there’s something to learn from it!” Pointing to the absence of anything new; pointing to the rehashed and slightly desperate use of tried-and-true references… This is also a pointing to something worth looking at. If the Couture Week looks like this, full of desperate rehash and overload; form over substance – icing on icing, on the same old cake – then things are really getting to the point of no return.
But, as always, we have to ask: What next?
Link to article: Why Are Sportswear Giants Nike and Adidas Embracing Fashion? – The Business of Fashion.
There is so much in this article that is relevant to our discussion, that it could be –and probably will be– assigned reading before long. Major points are the references to the H&M and ZARA business-models and the acknowledgement of the speed of the present day Internet-driven market. No “forecasting,” just reflexivity and responsiveness. Not that that is news, but here we begin to see what may be a long-term effect of the technology. Pretty soon we won’t even be saying “fast fashion” I suspect. This will just be what it is. (The way no one talks about the Internet as “new media” any more. Maybe we’ll start talking about “slow fashion” to differentiate.)
I also found the emphasis on the collaborations interesting, especially noting the celebrities and the spectacular nature of some of those those involved.
But please just whistle past this kind of marketing-speak (from NIKE CEO): “One of the things that we recognize, certainly in the women’s business, is that there is no performance without style.” (Yeah, yeah, whatever.)
The “Fashion World” maintaining it’s own mythology, perhaps. Why Galliano, when there are a number of other talents to applaud? This article is extremely revealing about the spectacle itself.
John Galliano: penitent return of an enfant terrible | Fashion | The Guardian.
This article taking about Kors’ identity is absolutely amazing, its as if she was sitting in on our class for the past couple of weeks. Or it just shows how obvious Kors’s brand is really becoming as one of the most confusing lines of luxury goods. Overall this piece is a quick read but its a must read! Everything the author says is on point and like I did in this past project on Kors she compares Kors to Hilifiger the first chance she gets. Another really interesting statement is “One of fashion’s cruelest means of trickery, one of its prevailing intoxicants, is to offer the illusion of wealth when the reality is too distant to inhabit.” I cannot get over how truthful of a write up this is on Kors. She even mentions the whole aspect or reality and the lack thereof.