Grace Coddington: the woman who made fashion art | Fashion | The Guardian

The end of an era? That means the beginning of a new one – except in this industry…

Over 30 years she created some of US Vogue’s most exciting and influential photo spreads, but now Grace Coddington has stepped aside. Is this a turning point for the industry?

Source: Grace Coddington: the woman who made fashion art | Fashion | The Guardian

Unpacking the Apple-Met Museum Fashion Collaboration – WSJ

Here’s a timely and interesting article that could have been the basis for much of our discussion so far. “Death of Fashion,” Post-modern condition, art in the age of mechanical reproduction, McLuhan, and on and on…
~KA

Apple Chief Design Officer Jony Ive, Vogue Editor-in-Chief Anna Wintour and the Metropolitan Museum’s Costume Institute Curator Andrew Bolton speak with the WSJ about their upcoming exhibit on fashion and technology.

Source: Unpacking the Apple-Met Museum Fashion Collaboration – WSJ

Notes from the changing room: behind the scenes with Mad Men’s costume designer

Pop culture disappearing up it’s own something-or-other:
“Mad Men style has had such a tremendous impact on modern popular style.”
Oh…
Hang on? What?
Where? When? How?
I’m offering a reward to anyone who can show me this in concrete, tangible form. Pictures, please.
(I don’t know what the reward is , my head is spinning too fast…)
BTW look at the pictures that go with the article before you consider the quoted statement in any depth.

Link: Notes from the changing room: behind the scenes with Mad Men's costume designer | Television & radio | The Guardian.

It’s Oscars Night!

Here’s an interesting article on the occasion of Oscars Night. (Actually it gets more interesting as you go along. You just have to get through the first bit….)
The quotation to think about comes toward the end:

So powerful is the potential for Oscar glory for fashion brands that Tom Ford withdrew from his London fashion week catwalk presentation last week to focus his attention on dressing the stars at the Dolby Theatre

“He was angry that the two events clashed,” says Catherine Hayward, fashion director at Esquire magazine. “So he made a strategic decision not to show his collection because he would also miss out on crucial press coverage – in media terms, nothing can compete with the Oscars now.”

http://www.theguardian.com/film/2015/feb/22/leading-men-do-battle-on-scars-red-carpet-eddie-redmayne-fashion

New York Fashion Week Designer steals from Northern Cheyenne/Crow artist Bethany Yellowtail | Native Appropriations

Once again… How hard is this to understand? Or are the designers/ marketers being deliberately provocative, by this kind of cultural appropriation?

Brand KTZ’s Fall/Winter line at New York Fashion Week was “a tribute” to Indigenous peoples.

Brand KTZ’s Fall/Winter line at New York Fashion Week was “a tribute” to Indigenous peoples.


Link to article: New York Fashion Week Designer steals from Northern Cheyenne/Crow artist Bethany Yellowtail | Native Appropriations.

The Top 10 Moments From Spring/Summer 2015 Couture Week

Link to article: The Top 10 Moments From Spring/Summer 2015 Couture Week.

Question of the day, then: Is there anything to be learned from this? Maybe it’s just because I have a cold, but I can’t think of a single thing to point to….

Overloaded something-or-other, minimalism, Bianca Jagger’s suit for the thousandth time, Bowie-influence for the thousandth time, bla bla bla… If these are the ten most memorable moments, then this was a dismal week….

(OK, I’m also being deliberately a little ornery – maybe I’ll have something more positive to say on Monday…)

(6 hours later:)

OK, the obvious point is “of course, there’s something to learn from it!” Pointing to the absence of anything new; pointing to the rehashed and slightly desperate use of tried-and-true references… This is also a pointing to something worth looking at. If the Couture Week looks like this, full of desperate rehash and overload; form over substance – icing on icing, on the same old cake – then things are really getting to the point of no return.

But, as always, we have to ask: What next?

Why Are Sportswear Giants Nike and Adidas Embracing Fashion?

Link to article: Why Are Sportswear Giants Nike and Adidas Embracing Fashion? – The Business of Fashion.

There is so much in this article that is relevant to our discussion, that it could be –and probably will be– assigned reading before long.  Major points are the references to the H&M and ZARA business-models and the acknowledgement of the speed of the present day Internet-driven market. No “forecasting,” just reflexivity and responsiveness. Not that that is news, but here we begin to see what may be a long-term effect of the technology. Pretty soon we won’t even be saying “fast fashion” I suspect. This will just be what it is. (The way no one talks about the Internet as “new media” any more. Maybe we’ll start talking about “slow fashion” to differentiate.)

I also found the emphasis on the collaborations interesting, especially noting the celebrities and the spectacular nature of some of those those involved.

ps

But please just whistle past this kind of marketing-speak (from NIKE CEO): “One of the things that we recognize, certainly in the women’s business, is that there is no performance without style.” (Yeah, yeah, whatever.)