The lecture by Asdís Jóelsdóttir was very interesting and really informative to hear the story of icelandic fashion design in a short lecture. So remarkable to think that it were handknitted clothes which cleared the way to sell Icelandic design abroad. In the sixties Icelanders sold abroad Icelandic clothes made of wool that were produced in Iceland. But few decades later or in the late eighties the export changes into more international pattern and the icelandic export of clothes fell down. An advertisment from 1981 http://timarit.is/view_page_init.jsp?issId=299507&pageId=4496902&lang=is&q=%C1LAFOSS%20%C1LAFOSS Now again icelandic clothes designed from wool are produced abroad and sold domestically to travellers from other countries. This is the same as with fashion, everything goes in circles, it is the same but changes during the journey, with reference to “The Hundred Years´ Fashion”.
In the lecture, the „Zeigeist“ could be seen, for example in the big building Laugardalshöll. Because, when it was ready in the seventiens the Icelandic people, designers and business men could hold big shows there which was not possible before.
Another example is the production of wool fabric and wool clothes. The production was doing very well in the be beginning of eighties, because these clothes were popular with young people and they could buy it. An advertisment from 1970 http://timarit.is/view_page_init.jsp?issId=304726&pageId=4626126&lang=is&q=%C1LAFOSS
As a third example I can point out is when Iceland became a member of EFTA (The European Free Trade Association) 1970. Then some tolls on different things disappered and it became to expenseve to produce the clothes in the factories, for example the labour cost became to high. http://www.efta.int/
It was very intersting to see pictures (we did not get the slides from the lectures on Ugla) of old advertisements showing the exporting clothes and packs of icelandic wool knitting yarn, and patterns for the clothes, mostly sweaters. As the lecturer pointed out the icelandic public did not notice this export at that time. I did not find an adversement of any wool product from the eigthies but there are many from recent time. Here is a comparable picture from Ístex in the year 2015.
Finally, it caught my attention when the lecturer talked about the exporting of the wool clothes in the seventies. When this design became popular it was named the „Icelandic Look“ and some degsigners aboroad began to copy it. Maybe this clothes were in fashion, not classic and as Simmel said: „Some form are intrinsically more suited to the modifications of fashion than others: the internal unity of the form called „classic“ makes them immune to change.“ Or was it only copying and business? Now I am wondering whether and how this „Icelandic look“ is today. Is it as is was before, is it the wool clothing, is it the landcape, is it the icelandic models or something else? How is Icelandic look today? Is there an „Icelandic look“ to day?